In the watch world, time never stands still, so allow us to catch you up on the latest news. This edition of our regular watch column, The Wind Up, was headlined by arguably the biggest news of the year, with Patek Philippe unveiling its first brand-new collection in 25 years. In other news, maisons like Ulysse Nardin, H. Moser & Cie and Urwerk all unveiled their own respective latest and greatest releases, with a new Freak doing its thing, while Bremont released its first-ever full ceramic case to round out a very eventful week. Enjoy gents!
Patek Philippe’s Cubitus Collection
Rumours of Patek Philippe’s first new collection of watches in 25 years have been circling for weeks. Forums were loaded with supposed ‘leaks’, artist impressions and potential designs, bringing speculation to a fever pitch. Was it to be? Was it going to happen? On Thursday, news finally broke, confirming what many of us knew to be true. Say hello to the Cubitus Collection.
Angular, architectural and rather bold, the new Cubitus Collection features three distinct pieces. There is the green dial stainless steel reference 5821/1A, the two-tone stainless steel and rose gold reference 5821/1AR and the platinum 5822P, both with sunburst blue dials. These are large but slim, loud but somehow also not, and very un-Patek like. Now, I’ll save my subjective thoughts until I can actually get hands-on with them, but for the time being, I will go out on a limb and say this – The Nautilus wasn’t a hit when it was first released. Neither was the Aquanaut. Let the dust (and the commentary) settle and give it a chance.
Patek Philippe Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phases
- Brand: Patek Philippe
- Model: Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phases
- Reference: Ref. 5822P-001
- Diameter: 45mm
- Thickness: 9.6mm
- Movement: Calibre 240 PS CI J LU self-winding movement
- Power Reserve: 48 hours
- Water-Resistance: 30 metres
- Price: USD$88,378 (AUD$132,000)
Patek Philippe Cubitus
- Brand: Patek Philippe
- Model: Cubitus
- Reference: Ref. 5821/1AR-001 / Ref. 5821/1A-001
- Diameter: 45mm
- Thickness: 8.3mm
- Movement: Calibre 26-330 S C Self-winding mechanical movement
- Power Reserve: 45 hours
- Water-Resistance: 30 metres
- Price: USD$41,250 (AUD$61,600) / USD$61,280 (AUD$91,400)
Bremont Supermarine Tactical Black Full Ceramic
- Brand: Bremont
- Model: Supermarine Tactical Black Full Ceramic
- Reference: Ref. SM43-DT-BKCER-BK-N-S
- Diameter: 43mm
- Thickness: 13mm
- Movement: Modified Calibre 11 1/2’’’ BE-92AV
- Power Reserve: 50 hours
- Water-Resistance: 500 metres
- Price: £5,950
Patek Philippe wasn’t the only brand to drop something completely different this week. Revered British watchmaker Bremont unveiled the Supermarine Tactical Black Full Ceramic, its first-ever full ceramic case and I must say, it is a welcomed breath of fresh air. Where other maisons have dipped into ceramic construction for no reason other than to extend their product lines, Bremont’s foray into the scratch-resistant case material feels entirely on-brand. With a focus on adventure pieces and British ingenuity, the new Supermarine Tactical is a timepiece that makes the most of its surroundings.
Arriving in a stunning matte-finish ceramic case with a matching black ceramic bezel insert, the tactical watch boasts a sleek and rugged aesthetic. I really love the Nato strap here, and the fact that it was meticulously woven on 18th-century Jacquard French looms only adds to the subtlety of its luxury. On the dial, you’ll find applied indexes and hands filled with blue emission Super-LumiNova, while the new knurled uni-directional titanium bezel is just the icing on a well-constructed cake.
Inside, Bremont has spent significant time and effort crafting a movement that mirrors the rugged and robust nature of its ceramic outside. The modified Calibre 11 1/2’’’ BE-92AV movement, which dishes up 50 hours of power reserve, is protected behind a titanium movement container and secured with a PVD-treated titanium case back. Throw in the ultra-impressive 500-metre water resistance and the addition of a helium escape valve, and it’s not hard to see why I’m excited by the new Bremont Supermarine Tactical Black Full Ceramic.
H. Moser & Cie x Massena LAB Endeavour Chronograph Compax
- Brand: H. Moser & Cie x Massena LAB
- Model: Endeavour Chronograph Compax
- Reference Number: 1220-1200
- Diameter: 41mm x 13.30mm
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Calibre: HMC 220
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Price: CHF25,000 (Limited to 100 pieces)
New from H. Moser & Cie, and made in collaboration with Massena LAB, is the Endeavour Chronograph Compax. Featuring a bi-compax dial layout, the Endeavour Chronograph Compax is based on Moser’s pocket watch chronographs from the 1940s. It features the independent maison’s distinctive “funky blue” gradient-finished dial, along with a few sneaky Easter Eggs for fans, including the Moser logo in its historical form.
The H. Moser & Cie x Massena LAB Endeavour Chronograph Compax also has luminous Arabic numerals, faux-patina on the dial and hands, and exposed mushroom pushers for the chronograph. Turning the piece over reveals an in-house movement with an added chronograph module from Dubois Dépraz that is well-finished and complete with Moser stripes of differing widths.
I really enjoy the symmetrical design, with the two sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock providing an elegant harmony that harks back to the design cues of the mid-20th century. According to Massena LAB’s William Massena, that vintage touch wasn’t put there by accident.
“Taking inspiration from Moser chronographs from the 1940s, what intrigued me the most during this collaboration was the tension between the maximalist vintage aesthetic of the past and the radical minimalism at the heart of modern-day H. Moser & Cie,” Massena said. “Marrying these two philosophies was a challenge, but the resulting Endeavour Chronograph Compax is a watch which links the past and present, whilst looking firmly towards the future.”
Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion
- Brand: Urwerk
- Model: UR-150 Scorpion
- Reference Number: UR-150
- Diameter: 42.49mm x 14.79mm
- Water Resistance: 50m
- Calibre: UR-50.01
- Power Reserve: 43 hours
- Price: CHF88,000 (Titan); CHF89,000 (Dark) (Both limited to 50 pieces each)
The latest in a long line of animal-named watches is the UR-150 Scorpion, Urwerk went to town with the UR-150 Scorpion. This unique and innovative timepiece utilises the same rotating satellite configuration that the maison has become synonymous with, in either a titanium and steel (Titan) version, or a titanium and anthracite PVD-treated steel model (Dark).
The UR-150 Scorpion ingeniously displays satellite hours on a brass carousel and retrograde minutes, with beautiful finishing evident throughout. The lug architecture is curved and matches the sweeping angle of the sapphire crystal atop the dial, completing a rather ergonomic look and feel.
Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE Navy Blue
- Brand: Ulysse Nardin
- Model: Freak ONE Navy Blue
- Reference Number: 2403-500-3A/3x
- Diameter: 44mm x 13.37mm
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Calibre: Calibre UN-240
- Power Reserve: 90 hours
- Price: CHF63,300
The Freak is such an interesting watch. It’s a spectacle of engineering, creativity, and, of course, theatrics. That culmination of absurdity gives off the impression that the Freak is just that—a Freak, but from the perspective of sheer technical prowess, Ulysse Nardin’s enigmatic icon is unmatched.
With its latest and greatest variation, the Freak ONE really comes to life. Encased in black DLC-coated titanium with a Carbonium bezel, the dial is, in fact, just a navy blue disc that covers the barrel, with the one-hour orbital carousel tourbillon taking centre stage. A feat of mastery, no doubt, but that’s not the half of it.
Following the same characteristics as its predecessors, the new timepiece features an uncommonly high strength-to-weight ratio and is water-resistant to 30 metres. According to the brand, the oversized silicon oscillator and balance spring create further visual drama, while the escapement wheel and anchor – the watch’s beating heart – are coated in DiamonSil.
The watch is also equipped with Ulysse Nardin’s innovative Grinder automatic winding system, which charges it up to its maximum 90-hour power reserve. The setting device is recessed into the case back, and the watch is finished with a pair of rubber straps made of 30 per cent recycled production waste. If avant-grade design and innovation are up your alley, you might well be a Freak at heart.
Sydneysiders Step Inside Panerai World
With Australia firmly tucked away at the bottom of the earth, it’s little wonder we are generally the last to see product and receive allocations, but Italian watchmaker Panerai is trying to change that. At the start of the month, the brand hosted a one-of-a-kind immersive experience in the heart of Sydney, offering Australian watch lovers a rare opportunity to see novelties, new models and classic pieces up close.
Panerai global CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué made the trek Down Under for the occasion, welcoming guests to experience the World of Panerai at an exhibition and glamorous event in Sydney’s Walsh Bay.
“We have long dreamt of bringing our World of Panerai to Australia, and inviting guests to immerse themselves in the Panerai story,” Jean-Marc Pontroué said. “Our timepieces are strongly aligned with the Australian lifestyle, and it is a thrill to share our exhibition with collectors and VIPs in your beautiful country.”
Across a series of activations, fans explored the Florentine luxury watchmaker’s rich history and groundbreaking innovations, diving deep into Panerai’s remarkable legacy. Over the evening, 33 Panerai timepieces, including the Luna Rossa collection and the novel Submersible Elux LAB-ID, were showcased.
