French luxury house Chanel has scooped a 25 per cent stake in haute horological brand MB&F, according to a statement shared on Thursday. The financial terms of the deal have not been disclosed to the public with Frédéric Grangié, president of Chanel Watches & Fine Jewellery, simply noting that the partnership signals an alignment of values.
“We are delighted to sign a strategic partnership with MB&F who share the same values of independence, creativity and excellence,” Grangié wrote in a statement. “The announcement is part of our long-term strategy to continue to preserve, develop and invest in specialist know-how and expertise, reaffirming our position in high-end watchmaking.”
MB&F, a Swiss company founded by former CEO of Harry Winston Rare Timepieces Maximilian Büsser in 2005, is revered for its remarkable portfolio of intricately designed, high-complication models. The brand’s unique ‘Horological Machines’ incorporate flora and fauna-inspired elements, three-dimensional settings and kinetic structures that pull double duty as aesthetic components and mechanical fixtures.
According to Business Times, in 2023, the brand reportedly earned CHF 45.4 million (AUD$78.95 million) in revenue, selling 419 timepieces, which equates to roughly CHF 108,000 (AUD$187,000) per timepiece. Thankfully, not all MB&F models are priced in that category, with the maison’s M.A.D. Editions sub-brand, which launched in 2021, providing a more accessible entry point for watch lovers.
Under the terms of the agreement, Büsser will reportedly retain a 60 per cent majority stake in the company, while Serge Kriknoff, who oversees R&D and production, will hold 15 per cent. According to Forbes, the duo will continue to lead MB&F in the immediate future, along with Charris Yadigaroglou, head of Marketing Communications, and Thibault Verdonckt, head of Sales.
Importantly, the partial acquisition continues Chanel’s push into the world of high-end watchmaking, following successful investments in maisons Romain Gauthier in 2011 and F.P. Journe in 2018. Over that period, Chanel has grown its footprint in the watchmaking sector significantly, elevating its catalogue of timepieces from traditionally fashion-focused to true haute horology.
Just this year, the brand unveiled a swathe of stunning timepieces at Watches & Wonders, including the J12 Couture and J12 Flying Tourbillon, which signalled a new foray into high-end complication manufacture. With MB&F now on board, Chanel has all the pieces in place to make a serious play at watchmaking’s top tier.
“It was our responsibility, in today’s very favourable context and with our management team in its prime, to take this major step to ensure our long-term future – a natural evolution for a company celebrating its 20th anniversary next year,” Büsser said via Forbes. “In addition to allowing us to pursue our independent path, free of any pressure on growth, the investment by Chanel will strengthen our operations by providing access when needed to their wider ecosystem and network of specialised suppliers.”
